Toraya Kyoto

Visited a tea house the other day. Took me awhile to figure out their system - diners enter their name and number in their party in a book (which is not obvious to the uninitiated). Your party is called when a table is available; which for this popular place took about 45 minutes. I was the only non-Asian, one of only a few men and the only single diner so it was a bit awkward; I think the staff and other guests didn't know what to make of me:)

The setting includes an adjacent art gallery and garden; perfect for enjoying the combination of bitter tea and sweets:) 

I had Gyokura tea and sticky rice dumplings in a warm kinda bean paste soup; forgot the name. Evidently this place is pretty famous and I now understand why:)

Kyoto Imperial Palace

As luck would have it I'm in Kyoto one of only two times (spring and autumn) when the Imperial palace is open to the public and it is about 100m from my Airbnb!  This is where Japan's Imperial family lived until 1879 when the Capitol was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. During my last visit to Japan my guide told me how the Japanese people revered the Imperial family and the crowds I experienced today seem to support that claim. 

The autumn colors accentuate the lovely Japanese gardens around the palace grounds and the buildings and art are beautiful.

Lazy Susan Sushi

During my previous stop at Kyoto Station I came across this nice looking sushi restaurant; it didn't open until 11am so I couldn't try it but I was impressed by the 5 chefs busily preparing their craft around 10am. So when I returned to Kyoto Station today I sought it out. It was around noon but already the restaurant was packed and a line was growing outside. After a 15 minute wait I took a seat at a big circle and watched all kinds of sushi pass before me and other diners on a circular conveyor. Each diner served them self by taking one of the many small plates from the conveyor; ginger, multiple kinds of soy sauce, chopsticks, tea, and small plates (for sauce and ginger) are located at each space. When finished, your price is determined by adding up the plates; plates are different colors to denote price. Wonderful, fresh sushi; it was difficult to stop eating:)

Impressed

In route to my first Airbnb stay in Kyoto. Arriving from Hiroshima via Skinkansen, I made my way to the subway and actually figured out by myself how to buy a ticket for the correct station (there were no subway staff so I didn't have a choice:) 

Japan's transportation stations are a marvel of efficiency; trains, buses, subway, taxis, bikes, scooters, and cars all connect in one place!

Anyway, just to verify I was on the right track:) I asked a young guy to please confirm I was waiting on the right subway track. He did in perfect English; turns out he is from France and is finishing a one year internship in Japan after graduating with an undergraduate degree from France and before he begins his graduate studies. So I'm guessing he is about 22 years old and he is fluent in at least 3 languages-wow; and very personable. Gives me hope for our youth:)

Traveling alone

People sometimes ask me about traveling alone around the world. I tell them decision making is very easy:) 

Seriously, I like traveling alone; it's easier to be present. Going solo also reduces idle chatter and provides opportunity for silence. Also, for what I'm focusing on (meditation) traveling alone is really the only practical option.

I can engage a stranger in conversation if I wish (provided I speak the language:) or not. Mostly, I see  tour groups and couples and the couples don't always look happy:) rarely do I see someone who is obviously traveling alone.  It is liberating to travel alone but it does have disadvantages; like doing and figuring everything out for yourself; this can be a bit daunting and limiting when one doesn't speak the language.

Spending time alone, whether traveling or not, is something I highly recommend.

Hiroshima waterfront

Walked about 70 minutes this morning to Hiroshima Port then took the streetcar back to the hotel. Ferries take tourists and commuters to Matsuyama on the island/region of Shiloku but I didn't make the trek.

Later this morning I walked/took the streetcar to Miyajima-guchi where I caught the ferry to Itsukushima and saw the famous "floating" Shinto shrine.

Between the coast, rivers, and canals, Hiroshima is blessed with lots of water which makes for a beautiful setting.

Air pollution

I've taken to wearing a mask in big cities; the air pollution causes my nose to run. Initially I purchased the mask to ward off germs from sick people coughing and sneezing; however, it's also useful against air pollution. 

I first noticed my nose running while in Seoul; when I left the city my nose stopped running. It started again when I visited Kyoto and here in Hiroshima; when I move out of the cities, it stops.

Lots of people wear masks and while mine isn't comfortable and can cause my glasses to steam, the benefits outweigh these minor inconveniences.

Meditating

Meditating 3x/day; more during temple stays; looking forward (but a little anxious too) to my 10-day Vipassana meditation retreat next month. Learn or at least try something new at each temple stay and feel my practice benefitting from this journey; however, the time between retreats and temple stays is the hardest because it is real life when one is without group support/structure and is dealing with everyday thoughts and activities.

Kyushu

Today I finished touring Japan's most western region - Kyushu. Starting in Hiroshima I traveled by train to Hakata, Nagasaki, Beppu, and Oita; returning to Hiroshima today. Nagasaki was my favorite stop in Kyushu; a bustling, hilly city next to the ocean. The European-like hotel Montery in Nagasaki was my best accomodation to date, primarily because I had an end of hallway room overlooking a small, relatively quiet intersection; also, the interior design was thoughtful and peaceful. Would have liked to spend another night here but no availability. As I traveled to more rural areas like Beppu, English speakers declined and I was the only non-Asian I saw at the Beppuwan Royal hotel; a bit challenging getting to the hotel but for the kindness of the Japanese people. 

Like Korea, Japan is quite mountainous so much of the train travel is through tunnels; especially on the Sinkansen (bullet train); I'd guess over 50 percent of my Shinkansen travel is through tunnels. 

Random photos from my Kyushu tour.

Hiroshima Okonomiyaki

Tried Hiroshima Okonomiyaki tonight; crepe-like meal with lots of cabbage, bean sprouts, one egg, whatever other ingredients you want, and a secret sauce. The quality of ingredients and cleanliness of restaurant are key to taste; unfortunately, I did not choose well:) duh!; while this sounds obvious, unlike most restaurants where the diner only sees the finished product, Okonomiyaki is prepared in front of you and served on a griddle, not a plate so you see the quality of each ingredient as it is added and the cleanliness of the griddle; need I say more:)

I ordered mine with shrimp and squid filling and cheese topping; it was fun to watch the chef make the Okonomiyaki; photos show the order of assembly; basically the crepe is piled high with all ingredients; after cooking awhile, the chef uses a spatula to flip it onto cooked noodles and then flipped again onto a cooked egg. The secret sauce is added next; followed by toppings. The dish is served onto a side griddle in front of the diner and you are given a small spatula to cut it into servings; place one serving at a time on your plate and eat with chopsticks. Can see why watching the chef prepare each dish on a large griddle in front of you is popular with tourists.

Curry in Nagasaki

Walked downtown Nagasaki tonight thinking I would eat Japanese or Chinese (large Chinatown here) but ended up eating Nepalese. Stumbled upon Mugal Muhal and took a chance; glad I did, the vegetable curry was so flavorful, the rice was freshly and perfectly made, and the naan melted in my mouth! Even the little side salad was tasty and made a great palate cleanser. Also came with a delicious cup of soup and papadom; all for $8.70!

Bento box

The ubiquitous bento box is a staple of train travelers, workers, and tourists in Japan. Typically comprised of rice, vegetables, and fish or meat; a bento is a single portion "takeout" meal. Prices vary depending on contents but I paid anywhere from 500 to 1500 yen (about $4-13).

I actually found a vegan (not that I could ever confirm:) bento box at the Hakata station that I bought for today's train ride to Nagasaki; yes it is ol to eat on trains. Labels are all Japanese but as far as I could tell it contained rice, sweet potato, seaweed, tofu, and vegetables.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

The bullet train from Kyoto to Hiroshima took exactly 2 hours 21 minutes; these trains are evidently always on time.

After grabbing lunch at the train station (surprising to me but the big city train stations have good food choices), I took the free (with a JR Pass) sightseeing shuttle to my hotel; from there it was a 10 minute walk to the peace park. Quite moving. 

Japanese bakeries

Just I was lamenting the lack of baked goods like I'm used to making I came across Andersens in Hiroshima. To me, it appears to be a high end shop dealing in wine, baked goods, deli, and meats. If you live in Colorado you might be familiar with Tony's. If you live back east you might be familiar with Dean & DeLuca. Both pale in comparison to Andersens:) even I could gain weight in this place:)

The first photo is a chestnut bread I devoured while warm; the second is a delicious cherry pastry; I could go on...